Metamorphosis at the Church of Panagia Chalkeon in Thessaloniki

Astonishing beauty

On the Feast of the Metamorphosis (the Transfiguration of Jesus, on August 6th this summer) I ventured to visite this little jewel built in 1028 (this is the date the founder, the protospatharios Christophoros, mentions in the elegant inscription carved upon the main entrance) and still preserving the original fresco cycle coeval with the foundation, painted by Constantinopolitanian artists. The title of the church and its origin are still under debate. It could have been Panaghia in Chalkoprateia, as it was in Constantinople for the Church of Theotokos in Chalkoprateia[1], because of the workshops of copper-smithing you could find strolling by the church in ancient times. In the inscription Christophoros wrote: ‘This place, profane until now, is dedicated, as a distinguished church, to the Mother of God.’ [2].

The cycle is now under a terrific restoration, still I was able to catch some shots I would like to share with you:)

Apse, Theotokos between Gabriel and Michael.

The Communion of the Apostles, on the right of the apse. S. Peter is bowing to receive the Holy Bread.

The Communion of the Apostles, on the left of the apse. S. Paul is bowing to receive the Holy Wine.

Dome, Ascension. You can see some expressive apostles looking at the mandorla of the Saviour susteined by two angels. The representation of the Saviour, sitting with the shape of his legs clearly visible under the tunic, is the same you can appreciate on the sinopia of the mosaic on the dome of the Rotunda of S. George, still in situ.

Narthex, the Second Coming. Mary on the left and S. John on the right bow to intercede.

Narthex, S. Peter still on the right of the depiction of the Second Coming

Narthex, S. Paul still on the left of the depiction of the Second Coming.

Light bibliography for essential argonauts

[1] Muller-Wiener W., İstanbuilun Tarihsel Topografyasi, 1998

thebyzantinelegacy.com/chalkoprateia

[2] Papahatzis N. Niconanos N., Monuments of Thessaloniki, 12th edition

Kourkoutidou-Nikolaidou E. Tourta A., Wandering in Byzantine Thessaloniki, 1997

thebyzantinelegacy.com/chalkeon